by Kate Hughes, 7 April 2011
A tiny Mount Barker winery aims to bring the giants of the grape to their knees again.
Boutique maker Gilberts, owned by the Melville- based family of the same name, expects their 2011 Riesling to be as every bit as good as its 2010 predecessor, which won the Southern Hemisphere’s premier wine label the varietal.
Vineyard worker and Notre Dame student Matthew Gilbert flew to Canberra last November to accept the trophy for a wine which beat the best of Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and the United States.
His father Jim Gilbert describes this year’s vintage as “sensational”.
The grapes were picked in the cool of the night when juice acidity levels are at their highest, maximising the flavour.
Leeming wine connoisseur and wine investor Stephen Wragg bought a case of the 2010 Riesling when he learned of its success and plans to put his money where his mouth is again this year.
“It is exceptional quality with intense flavours and extensive length,” he said.
“It is similar to the finest French and German styles.
“Gilberts came on to the radar about 10 years ago when they started winning competitions and it’s good to see a small Western Australia winery doing well.”
In 2000 the Gilberts Riesling won the trophy at the Qantas Mount Barker wine show, the first time in the show’s history a Riesling had been declared the best wine in Western Australia.
Matthew Gilbert said the hot summer ripened the fruit earlier and led to a scramble to harvest.
“We only have three acres under Riesling so it took three hours to bring it in,” he said.
“The chardonnay had to be hand-picked and it took us two days to pick seven acres – and that was with the help of 12 European back packers.”
Jim Gilbert said the dry winter and hot summer looked like ruining this year’s vintage but 100mms of rain in January fixed the problem.
He was cautiously optimistic about Gilberts challenging giants like Penfolds, Grosset and Peter Lehmann for the Riesling trophy on the national wine competition circuit.
“You never know what the judges will taste on the day,” he said.
“If we get those who really like Riesling, then that will come through…
“All I can say is that the 2011 Riesling is on par with what we’ve been doing for some years.”
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